Mesh Crochet Shrug | Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

Learn how to make this simple crochet shrug! It’s made in one piece, with a little bit of sewing. It’s also super easy to adjust the size of each part of the shrug. Follow along with this free written pattern, or watch the video tutorial to make your very own mesh crochet shrug!

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Crochet Shrug Tutorial

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You can follow along with my YouTube video to make your own crochet shrug! I have timestamps included to help you jump to any point you need to!

Pattern Information

Materials

180 grams/434 yards of light weight yarn (Truboo in “Mushroom”)
4mm Clover Amour crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch marker

Crochet Abbreviations

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

rep = repeat

sk = skip

st = stitch

Gauge

11 rows of 9 squares makes a 10 x 10 centimeter (4″ x 4″) square

Dimensions

*includes instructions to adjust sizing

Overall: 14 centimeters wide x 120 centimeters long (5.5 x 47.2 inches)

Chest: 72-88 centimeters around (28.3-34.7 inches)

Sleeves: 14 centimeters wide x 38 centimeters long (5.5 x 15 inches)

Neck Hole: 26 centimeters (10.2 inches)

Notes and Tips

This pattern is written using US crochet terms
The number in (parentheses) at the end of each row is the square count after finishing that row
Italicized notes tell you what to change to adjust the size
The chain 5 at the beginning of each row counts as a double crochet and chain 2
We will only be working into the double crochet from the row before, not any chain spaces
The last double crochet of each row will go into the 3rd chain down from the top of the turning chain

Crochet Shrug Pattern

Foundation: Make a slipknot, ch305

Note: Do fewer chains for a smaller size, or more chains for a larger size. This length should be twice the length of the sleeves you want, plus the length from one underarm to the other. Your number of chains must be a multiple of 3, plus 2.

Row 1: dc in 8th ch from hook, rep[ch2, sk2, dc] across (100 squares)

Tip: The ch5 at the beginning of each row counts as a dc, ch2. We will only be working into the dc from the row before, not any chain spaces. The last dc of each row will go into the 3rd ch down from the top of the turning ch.

Rows 2-16: ch5, turn, dc in next st, rep[ch2, dc in next st] across (100 squares)

Note: This will be the width, NOT the circumference of the sleeve. Do fewer rows for a skinnier sleeve, or more rows for a wider sleeve.

Neck Hole

Mark the desired neck hole with stitch markers. Make sure it’s centered; there should be an even number of squares on either side of the neck hole. For mine, I have a 22-square neck hole (26cm/10.2in), with 39 squares on either side.

Note: If your neck hole is not 22 squares wide, do a different number of chains in Row 17. Multiply the number of neck hole squares by 3, then subtract 1, and do that many chains instead of 65.

Row 17: ch5, turn, dc in next st, rep[ch2, dc in next st] until st marker, ch65, dc in next st marker, rep[ch2, dc in next st] across (39 squares on either side of the neck hole)

Row 18: ch5, turn, dc in next st, rep[ch2, dc in next st] until ch, rep[ch2, sk2, dc] across ch, rep[ch2, dc in next st] across (100 squares)

Rows 19-33: ch5, turn, dc in next st, rep[ch2, dc in next st] across (100 squares)

Marking Underarms

Separate the sleeves from the body with stitch markers (see above image). For mine, I have 34 squares in each sleeve (38cm/15in), and 32 squares across the body (36cm/14.2in). This stitch is stretchy, so I made the space across the body smaller than my actual measurements.

Fasten off with an extra long loose end. Make it twice the length of your sleeve, plus 13cm (5 in).

Sewing

Fold along the neck hole and line up the first row with the last row.

With the extra long loose end, sew each stitch and chain across until the stitch marker. Tie a double knot.

Cut a strand of yarn twice the length of your sleeve, plus 25cm (10 in). Attach the strand to the corner of the other sleeve. Use the yarn to sew across this sleeve until the stitch marker.